Conventional cotton
A natural fibre with an outsized pesticide, water and forced-labour footprint unless certified.
Also listed as: non-organic cotton, BCI cotton, '100% cotton'
What it is
Conventional cotton is grown from treated, often GM seed with heavy synthetic inputs, then ginned, spun and dyed through supply chains that frequently cross five or more countries before the garment is sewn.
Why it's worth avoiding
The impact sits upstream where no consumer can see it: irrigation drawdown, pesticide exposure for farm workers, effluent from dye houses, and — in some regions — state-imposed labour.
What the evidence says
Cotton accounts for roughly 4.7% of global pesticide sales on about 2.4% of arable land (Pesticide Action Network). Xinjiang produced around 20% of world cotton before import bans over forced-labour findings.
How it's regulated
The US UFLPA presumes goods with Xinjiang inputs are made with forced labour and bars import unless rebutted. The EU's forced-labour regulation adopted in 2024 introduces a comparable market ban.
Label clues
- '100% cotton' with no GOTS, OCS, Fairtrade or regenerative certification
- No country of origin or spinner named anywhere on the site
- Very low price points with high colour saturation
- 'Cotton blend' hiding a majority-polyester composition
Safer swaps
- GOTS-certified organic cotton with a licence number
- Recycled cotton (GRS) for lower-input basics
- Hemp, linen or lyocell for durability with lower irrigation
- Secondhand and deadstock, which add no new farming impact
Where it shows up
Frequently asked
Is BCI cotton the same as organic?+
No. Better Cotton is a mass-balance improvement programme without an organic input ban, and the fibre in your garment may not be Better Cotton at all. GOTS certifies the physical product.
Is recycled cotton as good as organic?+
For impact per kilo, often better — no new farming. Fibre length is shorter, so it is usually blended, which can complicate future recycling.