Virgin polyester
Petroleum-derived fibre making up over half of global textile output, shedding microfibres with every wash.
Also listed as: PET, polyethylene terephthalate, 'performance fabric'
What it is
Virgin polyester is spun from fossil-derived PET. It is cheap, strong, quick-drying and dominant in fast fashion, sportswear and home textiles.
Why it's worth avoiding
Production is energy- and emissions-intensive, the fibre sheds microplastics throughout its life, and at end of life it neither biodegrades nor gets recycled at meaningful rates in practice.
What the evidence says
Textile Exchange reports polyester at about 57% of global fibre production, with under 1% of textiles recycled fibre-to-fibre. Most 'recycled polyester' comes from bottles, not old clothing.
How it's regulated
The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles targets mandatory ecodesign, durability and recycled-content rules; France's AGEC law already requires microfibre-shedding disclosure on new washing machines.
Label clues
- '100% polyester' with no GRS or RCS recycled claim
- 'Performance', 'moisture-wicking', 'quick-dry' with no fibre detail
- Fleece, sherpa and microfibre textures (the highest shedders)
Safer swaps
- GRS-certified recycled polyester where synthetic performance is needed
- Merino wool for odour-resistant activewear
- Organic cotton, hemp or lyocell for everyday layers
- Repair, resale and buying one durable piece instead of three cheap ones
Where it shows up
Frequently asked
Is recycled polyester actually better?+
It cuts virgin fossil input and energy use, which matters, but it sheds microfibres identically and usually comes from bottles rather than textiles. Treat it as a real improvement, not a solution.
What about bio-based polyester?+
Partly plant-derived PET behaves like conventional PET in use and at end of life. The feedstock changes; the persistence does not.