Phthalates
Plasticisers and fragrance fixatives linked to endocrine disruption, most often hidden inside the word 'parfum'.
Also listed as: DEHP, DBP, DEP, BBP, 'fragrance'
What it is
Phthalates are esters of phthalic acid used to soften PVC and to make scent last longer. Because fragrance formulas are legally protected as trade secrets, diethyl phthalate frequently appears on a label only as 'fragrance' or 'parfum'.
Why it's worth avoiding
They are not chemically bound to the plastic or the formula, so they migrate into skin, food, dust and air continuously through the product's life.
What the evidence says
The US CDC has measured phthalate metabolites in nearly all people sampled. Prenatal exposure to DEHP and DBP is associated in cohort studies with altered reproductive development in male infants; ECHA lists several phthalates as substances of very high concern for reproductive toxicity.
How it's regulated
The EU restricts DEHP, DBP, BBP and DIBP to 0.1% in articles under REACH; the US CPSIA bans eight phthalates above 0.1% in children's toys and childcare articles. Cosmetics rules differ — DEP remains widely permitted.
Label clues
- 'Fragrance', 'parfum' or 'aroma' with no phthalate-free statement
- Recycling code 3 / 'PVC' or 'vinyl' on flexible plastics
- Soft, flexible plastic that smells of 'new shower curtain'
- Ingredient names ending in '-phthalate'
Safer swaps
- Fragrance-free formulas, or scent from named essential oils
- Glass, stainless steel or silicone instead of soft PVC
- EVA or PEVA shower curtains, or a washable cotton curtain
- Solid perfumes with a fully-disclosed ingredient list
Where it shows up
Frequently asked
Does 'unscented' mean phthalate-free?+
No. 'Unscented' can mean a masking fragrance was added to cover a base odour. 'Fragrance-free' with no parfum in the ingredient list is the safer claim.
Which phthalate is most common in cosmetics?+
Diethyl phthalate (DEP), used as a fragrance fixative and denaturant. It is rarely listed by name because fragrance components are exempt from full disclosure in most markets.
Related
How to spot Phthalates on a label
Phthalates rarely appears under that exact name on packaging. Manufacturers use trade names, umbrella terms such as "fragrance" or "performance finish", or simply omit process chemicals that are not classed as intentional ingredients. That is why reading a claim ("free from", "non-toxic", "natural") tells you far less than reading the composition and the certifications behind it.
The practical approach is to work backwards from certifications that test finished products rather than from ingredient lists alone. A scheme with residue limits and third-party lab testing catches substances that a marketing claim will never mention, including contamination introduced during dyeing, coating or packaging.
Exposure also depends on use. The same substance matters much more in something worn against skin all day, heated, chewed, or used on broken skin than in a rigid object handled briefly. Judge risk by contact, duration and temperature, not by the scariness of the name.
Claim vs. verification
| What you see | What it proves | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| “Free from” on the front of pack | Nothing verifiable on its own — unregulated wording | Look for a named standard or test method |
| Full ingredient or fibre list | Intentional inputs only, not process residues | Cross-check against a residue-tested certification |
| Third-party certification | Audited limits, usually with lab testing | Confirm scope, product line and expiry date |
| Published test report | Strongest evidence available | Check the lab, the date and the method used |
Safer-swap checklist
- Prefer residue-tested schemesOEKO-TEX, GOTS and equivalents set limits and test finished goods.
- Cut the coatingsStain-, water- and wrinkle-resistant finishes are the most common carriers of unwanted chemistry.
- Mind the heatHeat and abrasion increase migration; choose plainer materials for anything hot or worn.
- Ask for the certificateA brand that holds one will send the number; a brand that does not will change the subject.