Phthalates
Plasticisers and fragrance fixatives linked to endocrine disruption, most often hidden inside the word 'parfum'.
Also listed as: DEHP, DBP, DEP, BBP, 'fragrance'
What it is
Phthalates are esters of phthalic acid used to soften PVC and to make scent last longer. Because fragrance formulas are legally protected as trade secrets, diethyl phthalate frequently appears on a label only as 'fragrance' or 'parfum'.
Why it's worth avoiding
They are not chemically bound to the plastic or the formula, so they migrate into skin, food, dust and air continuously through the product's life.
What the evidence says
The US CDC has measured phthalate metabolites in nearly all people sampled. Prenatal exposure to DEHP and DBP is associated in cohort studies with altered reproductive development in male infants; ECHA lists several phthalates as substances of very high concern for reproductive toxicity.
How it's regulated
The EU restricts DEHP, DBP, BBP and DIBP to 0.1% in articles under REACH; the US CPSIA bans eight phthalates above 0.1% in children's toys and childcare articles. Cosmetics rules differ — DEP remains widely permitted.
Label clues
- 'Fragrance', 'parfum' or 'aroma' with no phthalate-free statement
- Recycling code 3 / 'PVC' or 'vinyl' on flexible plastics
- Soft, flexible plastic that smells of 'new shower curtain'
- Ingredient names ending in '-phthalate'
Safer swaps
- Fragrance-free formulas, or scent from named essential oils
- Glass, stainless steel or silicone instead of soft PVC
- EVA or PEVA shower curtains, or a washable cotton curtain
- Solid perfumes with a fully-disclosed ingredient list
Where it shows up
Frequently asked
Does 'unscented' mean phthalate-free?+
No. 'Unscented' can mean a masking fragrance was added to cover a base odour. 'Fragrance-free' with no parfum in the ingredient list is the safer claim.
Which phthalate is most common in cosmetics?+
Diethyl phthalate (DEP), used as a fragrance fixative and denaturant. It is rarely listed by name because fragrance components are exempt from full disclosure in most markets.